Is this any way to leave your Manx for 20+ years?

Manx uncovered, after it's 20+ year nap in the shed.

In the sun after it's nap in the shed.
This Manx belonged to Desiree's Father and has been passed on to Desiree. Desiree and her husband, Chris are devoted to getting this Manx back on the road.

MANX INTERIOR

MANX REAR QUARTER

MANX OUT OF SHED

MANX ON TRAILER

MANX REAREND

MANX WASH

Windshield removed.
The 11 screws holding the hood to the dash were badly rusted and a real pain to remove.

Hood to dash mounting screws.
Note the aftermarket turn signal switch.

Headlite and ignition switch.
The wiring is very brittle along with the ignition switch is laying on the crossbar and it's just a matter of time until the insulation wears thru.

Misc. wiring.
I don't know what the people were thinking when they started routing the wires.

Windshield mounting holes bolts were loose and wore the holes oval in the hood. The reason the bolts were loose is because the hole were drilled in the edge of the support bar. The dash looks good on the drivers side.

windshield mounting holes passenger side.
The dash is cracked and you can see the windshield mounting bracket between the hood and the dash.

Turn signal switch

backside of dash

Gas tank opening.
The wiring is just laying on the tie rods.

Newly fabricated fuel tank support. Ready for installation.
You may have noticed that it is made off center. This was done to allow me to use the exsisting fuel tank mounting bolts. The person that originally built this buggy didn't or couldn't read directions or a ruler.

New fuel tank support installed. There was no support installed when the buggy was originally built.

New fuel tank sitting in place. The fuel filler still needs to be shortened.

Nice shiny new brake drums installed on the rear of the buggy.

This is what is left of the wheel adapter after I took the torch to it. The lugs were spinning in the adapter.
Another reason not to use adapter plates.

Here is the wheel once I finally figured out how to get the brake drum and wheel adapter off of it.

BUGGY,SANS ENGINE. The engine had to be removed to allow access to the fuel line for replacement.

EXTRACTED ENGINE

New 1/4" steel fuel line after installation.

New fuel line w/mount under fuel tank.

Rear body mount. The buggy was missing these mounts which allowed the rear seat area to eventually sag to the point that it was sitting on the top of the transmission bellhousing.

The filler neck on the replacement fuel tank is a little different location the the original VW tank. Consequently it doesn't line up with the hole in the hood.

I started by cutting the filler neck completly off.

You can see the misalignment a little better with the neck cut completly off.

I tack welded the filler neck to the tank so it would be located perfectly in the opening.

Shortend and relocated filler neck welded in place. The filler neck needs to be at the proper length so the hood will come off over it.

All done, with a new shiny gas cap. I need to find a rubber "grommet" for lack of another word,to close off the opening around the filler neck.

FINISHED PRODUCT

Check out the wiring on this ignition switch. It was just installed by a local VW mechanic. I mearly unbolted the switch from the dash.

The start of the rewire job. The battery is mounted the battery cables routed and mounted and the voltage regulator is also mounted in the battery well.

The new battery cables as they exit the battery box.

This is a picture of the underside of the hood (without the dash). I noticed that there were only 2 holes in the hood and 7 holes in the fender for the hood mounting bolts. Needless to say only 2 screws actually made their way thru the hood on the passenger side.

I removed the 2 mounting screws and moved the hood to where it is supposed to be and all 7 screws
found their way thru the hood.

I had to do the same thing on the drivers side of the hood that I did to the passenger side.

The dash support fits correctly on the drivers side of the buggy.

The dash support on the passenger side of the buggy has a large gap to the inside of the buggy and a large gap (1/2") to the inside of the hood.
Upon further inspection, the reason the crossbar seemed short is because it was mounted too far back in the body. The body is wider the further back you go. With the bar located where it was designed to be, everything worked out very well.

I installed sheet metal screws for the initial locating of the holes in the hood.

More sheet metal screws.

I removed the sheetmetal screws one at a time then tapped the hole to 1/4-20 and replaced each screw with a stainless steel 1/4-20 bolt.

Front parking light.

Is this infact a Karmann Ghia turn signal?

The inside of the parking light. It is in need of a new lens gasket.